Electric Fence Zine: Mauritius

Since parting is such sweet sorrow, I decided to say goodbye to the friends I've made here in Mauritius not once but on three separate occassions. On Saturday June 14th, my house was site of first in a series of goodybe parties: une soireee d'au revoir gaie. About 20 gay and lesbian friends from the Collectif Arc en Ciel were in attendance, and we danced the evening away. My ambition going into the evening was to have the island's first house party for homos, and in that respect as well as others it was truly a success. Of my vingtaine esteemed guests, no less than 5 had to be put to bed by friends, and i count myself among them. Thanks to the 6 shots of sambuca flambee that I downed over the course of the evening, most of the party's happenings had to be recounted to me the following day. However, according to all who attended, the party was one of the most enjoyable that they had ever been to.

In a rare triumph of efficient multi-tasking (and inspite of a raging hangover), the day after the party I managed to wake up early and conduct focus groups with 20 Chinese garment workers. Of course that is a gross exaggeration-- my chinese comprehension has declined to such a pitiable state that i reguarly say nihao with the wrong tones. However, I was luckly enough to have the language support from a Chinese-speaking French woman who moved to L'Ile Maurice to be with her husband, a Hindu Mauritian doctor whom she met while doing studies in Beijing.

Goodbye party number two happened this past Thursday. To show my appreciation for their generosity, I treated my entire office to a goodbye lunch featuring all of their favorite things to eat. I presented them with cards as well as a photo album containing pictures from the whole of my senjour a Maurice, including photos from the weddings of two staffers. Suffice it to say, the gift was very well received. The on Saturday 21 July, I had a repeat visit with my workmates from Straconsult. The whole group of them came to my house to join the rest of my Mauritian friends in sending me off at a soriee d'adieu, potluck style. Among the more exciting dishes were soy fish curry (soy is to say fake veg fish), gateaux piment curry, and vegetarian fish prepared with greens stuffed with dahl flour and tamarind, served in a spicy and fragrant tomato sauce.

Sunday was dedicated to yet another goodbye get together.. this time, however, at the Belle Mare plage in the company of all the university students who aided me on my research project. In the 2 months that the group of us has been meeting daily for surveys and interviews, we have become fast friends. Thus, in spite of rainy and all around disagrerable weather, we passed a truly beautiful afternoon together, feasting on heaping plates of vegetable Biryani, dessert, and beer. After 10 straight weeks of mixed methods data collection, as well as 6 months of qualitative research, it felt wonderful celebrating the end of the project.

I summary, although my time in Mauritius has not been easy, preparing to leave has given me time to reflect on all that I have appreciated about the experience. I truly feel lucky to have had the opoprtuntiy to live in a place that is so physically stunning, sociologically unique, and other-worldy. Finalment, there are many things that I will miss, surtout mes amis.

Labels: goodbyes, research, things that make me happy

Posted by east of madagascar at 5:36 PM | Permalink | Comments

In just under 5 weeks time, I am moving back home, which is really hard to fathom.

While there are plenty of reasons why I should be ready to leave Mauritius, the prospect of leaving fills me with a certain sadness. For starters, there's the matter of all the things I will be leaving behind.

First and foremost, I will miss my friends. The few close friends that I have made here are really unforgettable. Ranging in age from 18 to 58, my group of friends counts among its members my constant companion Dorian, the researchers at my NGO, the university students aiding me with my project, my wonderful neighbors, a published novelist, a 30 year old doctor who studied at BeiDa, my Muslim friend who takes me out for drinks and dancing every Friday, my posee of a dozen or so gay and lesbian Mauritians (including one Catholic priest-turned LGBT activist) and a small cadre of progressive female lawyers.


Secondly, I will miss the food. As a wheat free vegetarian here in Mauritius, I have feasted like royalty for next to nothing. Vegetarian food is cheap, abundant, and incredibly creative. In fact, I hit up the veg-friendly eatery in Quatre Bornes so often, I have become friends with all of the servers and owners, and on my birthday, they even gave me a present, albeit a strange one.

There is also a robust culture of food vending on the street. My favorite roadside snack is a dish called gateaux piment, which is yellow dal soaked and blended with garlic and green onions and then fried. The final product is this heavenly meat-ball shaped that is typically eaten in chili.

There are also men that cook chinese dimsum and noodles on the road, and that serve roti with rougaille, pea curry, and seasoned spinach offered as toppings.

Apart from friends and food, I have also enjoyed the idiosyncrasies of the island that don't touch on the side of mistreatment of women. For instance, motorcycles are widely popular here, and on a given afternoon you can see "gangs" of motorcyclists idling at stop lights. However, breaking away from the typical dynamic, many of the Island's motorcyclists are men in their 50's, who use their motos as their primary mode of transit/transport/commerce. Thus, its not uncommon to see motorcyclists maneuvering the streets with hulking bags and oblong boxes or large potted house-plants.

And then there's Creole. Creole was initially the bane of my existence because it made communicating in French and English difficult... however, now I see it as a language that has a great deal of integrity at the level of grammar, and one that erases social distance and breeds a certain intimacy.

Finally, I will miss my fabulous rental house, my 6 remaining cats, my yard full of fruit tress, and the windows that look out onto the mountains...

Not to mention my sub-200 rent. Just received my housing offer from my Law School, and it looks as though I will be paying 6 times that amount to live in a studio the size of my current living room. Yay Manhattan prices!

Alas, now that I'm confronting the fact that I am on my way out, I have3 new commitments:
1. A Commitment to visiting all of the tourist attractions I've some how missed out on (MOST, as it turns out)
2. A Commitment to blog with more frequency &
3. A Commitment to send out postcards at long last.

Thus, to my readers:
If any of you would like to receive a post card from Mauritius, write me a comment with your mailing address in the body. All comments will be screened upon receipt to protect your internet anonymity

Labels: goodbyes, things that make me happy

Posted by east of madagascar at 12:33 AM | Permalink | Comments

Wednesday and Thursday evening, I attended a dazzling play called "Ma Ravanne (my drum)"

La Ravanne is a large, flat drum that is used to play sega, Mauritius's national song and dance, and that is featured prominently in the musical traditions of the greater region. Countries where the La Ravanne is popular are also countries where slaves and indentured servants were seized and brought to Mauritius. These include Madagascar, India, and Sri Lanka. Thus, the drum occupies an important place in the patrimony of the Western Portion of the Indian Ocean.

Naturally, when I heard that there was going to be an exposition on La Ravanne, I envisioned a concert of some variety or another. However, to my surprise, "MaRavanne ended up being an experimental play and of the most interesting theatrical experiences I've had.

Foremost, a word about the scene and the players..Ma Ravanne was staged in a room steeped in incense, in a tranche of the floor demarcated by sticks and stones. Further, it was realized of a troupe of 8 extremely good-looking, well-muscled, and scantily clad men (see loincloths) from across the Indian Ocean region, including Mauritius, Madagascar, India, Sri Lanka, Reunion, Seychelles.

The composition and aesthetics of the cast was interesting for several reasons, not the least of which is the demographics of the audience and their typical reactions to the play. Not only was every gay Mauritian that I know personally in attendance, so were dozens of unattached straight women, and both groups were salivating throughout the production and looked ready to slide out of their seats and puddle onto the floor. One 50 year old friend was so excited by the play that she had it 3 times already, but still had to fan herself when recounting her impressions( "C'était suuuPER! TRES jolie.)"

More pointedly, however, it made interesting use of objectification. For a change, it was mens' bodies that were sensualized and put on display, and by doing so, the play engaged in a discussion of performative masculinity and the male body as both a site of power and a site of fragility.

Beyond its selection of actors & constuming, MaRavanne also made very interesting use of narrative, song and dance. La Ravanne drums were both instruments and props through the production... sometimes even being used to obscure the faces of the actors and strung together depict these somewhat mythical figures. Also played reed pipes, indian string instruments, rainsticks and small percussion instruments.. blending the sound with storytelling and movement.

The play's narrative devices were also fascinating. Lines were delivered in French, Creole, Tamil, Hindi and Malagasy and were scattered among the members of the troupe. There were also many other types of vocalizations.. for instance, chirping, moaning, gasping for air/water. In addition, all took turns entering the center of the stage and dancing.. although here, the performers' movements were a cross between dancing and seizing, they were so frenetic.

One line that served as a refrain was "j'ai soif" (i am thirsty). Another recurring expression was a recitation of the names of prophets from Hinduism and Islam, as well as the phrase "si la lune ne revient pas?" (and if the moon does not return?) My initial reading of the line concerning thirst was that it was a reference to the longing felt by the descendants of slaves and the alcoholism that often helps make their exile bearable. However, a friend's interpretation was that the actors thirsted their ancestors, and that they wanted to imbibe the souls of their antecedents and those departed, as well as drink up their roots and traditions since abandoned.

Although my interpretation is perhaps disappointingly literal, my problem with this evaluation is that thirst does not seen like an apt metaphor to describe the desperation of a slave population secluded on an island. I would imagine that persons brought from Mainland Africa, India or Madagascar by coercion to a place like Mauritius (where you can almost always see the ocean) would result in a feeling of profound seasickness, and perhaps even a sensation of drowning.. having lungs full of water...

Ultimately, going to see "MaRavanne" twice allowed me to have two very different appreciations of the production. This difference in perception is based both on my re-view of the play and the fact that each night i was there, the Director adopted a different approach to introducing the play. For instance, on Wednesday when I saw "MaRavanne" for the first time, the play was staged without much in the way of introduction and audience members were left to deduce meanings themselves. However, during the second staging of the production, the director described in his own words what the play was meant to convey, and asserted that the play was mean to discuss slavery.

This commentary had an interesting impact on my experience, in that I found myself constantly searching for clues and corroboration.

For instance, if the production was indeed was a discussion of slaves and slavery (as opposed to descendants of slaves, for instance) one interesting thing about its staging is that the slavemasters and slaveowners are never depicted. To an extent, the same was true for bondage in general. Throughout the play, the actors move about the stage unbridled, unrestrained. Thus, the fact that the performers are enslaved or captive is never directly implied...

Interestingly, the only thing that suggested the fact of their captivity was the boundless volatility of their emotions. The actors were childlike in certain moments, hysterical at others, combative on certain occasions, and cloying and sensual at other times. There was a certain madness, a certain volatility about it.. It was the range of that one might imagine of someone in solitary confinement... where your lack of agency in the material world forces you to create an emotional life in your head.

Photography was not allowed at the performance, so I unfortunately do not have any images from the performance. However, a parting visual:

The final scene ends with a man with waist-length dreadlocks turning in a circle and beating the La Ravanne with his hair. Absolutely brilliant.

Since then, I can't tell you how much I've been asked whether I play instruments with my hair as well...

Labels: theatre, things that make me happy

Posted by east of madagascar at 11:26 PM | Permalink | Comments

Where else in the world can you find this sequence of questions on a nationwide census??

4.1 Have you been to a public beach for purposes other than work during the past 12 months?

4.2 How many times have you been to the beach during the past 12 months?

4.3 For what main purpose do you usually go to the beach?

4.4 What is your favourite beach? (If no favourite beach, the one most recently visited)

4.5 When did you last go there?

4.6 What was your means of transport for going there?

4.7 Where was the vehicle parked?

4.8 (a) At what time did you arrive at the beach?
(b) At what time did you leave the beach?

4.9 How would you describe the following with regards to the beach:
1. Accessibility
2. Shade
3. Parking facilities
4. Quality of sea water
5. Safety at sea
6. Maintenance
7. Kiosk facilities
8. Availability of tap water
9. Toilet facilities
10. Shower facilities
11. Refuse disposal facilities
12. Security on the beach
13. Lighting
14. Availability of leisure activities

4.11 How important are the following factors the choice of a beach?

4.12 Do you consider your favourite beach (or the one most recently visited) as being crowded?

4.13 (a) Are you aware if there are less crowded beaches nearby?
(b) Which is the nearest one you know?

4.14 How would you describe the following with regards to the beach stated in 4.13
(b).
1. Accessibility
2. Shade
3. Parking facilities
4. Quality of sea water
5. Safety at sea
6. Maintenance
7. Kiosk facilities
8. Availability of tap water
9. Toilet facilities
10. Shower facilities
11. Refuse disposal facilities
12. Security on the beach
13. Lighting
14. Availability of leisure activities


That is all.

Labels: things that make me happy

Posted by east of madagascar at 11:54 PM | Permalink | Comments

Rainbow Pride 2007 is in full force. The first-ever Indian Ocean LBGT Film Fest began on Monday, to a packed house. Over 90 people were in attendance, and after viewing a series of short films, a group of 20 of us went out to eat at King Dragon in Quatre Bornes.

One of the filmmakers whose work we have been screening is actually visiting the Island for the week. His name is Paul Lee, and he is a much lauded filmmaker from Toronto, Canada. The two of us have done some bonding over our shared geographic origins, as well as our affection for New Haven. Apparently, he considered going to Yale for a Ph.D in Anthropology in 2002, but opted to stay in Canada instead.

In other news, my project has recently seen a real flurry of activity. This past weekend, I conducted my first ever interviews with migrant workers. In addition, I just assembled a multi-lingual research team, and hope to spend the entirety of June and July administering surveys to and conducting focus groups with shopfloor workers. This is a departure from the first half of my project, which polled the experiences of company owners. Thus, suffice it to say, I am really excited.

Last but no leased, I am pleased to announce that I just posted 100 new photos at my photoblog on flickr! These pictures mark my first real foray into street photography since coming to Mauritius. I'm rather happy with the outcome. Shot some video as well, but still devising a way to post it.

More photos here...Enjoy.

Labels: festivals, photography, things that make me happy

Posted by east of madagascar at 12:46 AM | Permalink | Comments

One year after staging the country’s first-ever Gay Pride Festival, LGBT activists on the tiny African Island of Mauritius are returning to the streets once more to rally against the homophobia that touches their lives daily.

Rainbow Pride Mauritius begins Monday 28 May 2007 with a groundbreaking International LGBTQ Film Festival, brought to Mauritius by the . The weeklong festival will features award-winning movies from Africa, Asia, Europe and the Americas, along with an appearance by gay filmmaker Paul Lee. Admission is free and open to the public.

Two more hallmark Pride events take place during the weekend. On Saturday 2 June, LGBTQ Mauritians and their allies will assemble for the country’s Second Annual Pride March, in the company of dignitaries, speakers and a diverse group of gay performance artists. That evening, Rainbow Pride will conclude with a dazzling soirée for the island’s LGBTQ community. Nearly a thousand people are expected to attend.

The organizer of the 2006 and 2007 Mauritian pride festivals is the Collectif Arc-en-Ciel, an organization that advocates for LGBTQ Mauritians and sensitizes the public about homophobia and discrimination. Partners for this year also include the Embassy of France and the Embassy of South Africa.

In addition to challenging the stigma that homosexuality carries in Mauritius, Rainbow Pride 2007 will galvanize support for a Parliamentary bill that would decriminalize sodomy. According to existing laws, consensual sodomy is punishable by five years in jail.

Reflecting on this new campaign, organizers at the Collectif Arc-en-Ciel told the press: “Everyone has a right to live, to think and to love, regardless of their sexual orientation. Therefore, our hope is to create a society where sexual diversity is celebrated, and where the civil rights of lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgendered persons are protected under law.”

List of Activities:
Event: International LGBT Film Festival
Date & Time: 28th May to 1st June 2007, 19h-22h
Location: Centre Culturel Charles Baudelaire, Rose Hill Mauritius.

Event: 2nd Annual Rainbow Pride March
Date & Time: 2nd June 2007, 11h
Location: Rose Hill Municipality, Mauritius

Event: Rainbow Pride Party
Date & Time: 2nd June 2007, 22h30
Location: Kart Loisirs, Petite Rivière, Mauritius

Contact Information for Collectif Arc en Ciel:
Thierry de Ravel (President) thierry@publico.mu cell : +230 422 4119
Audrey Kelly (Vice President) audreyk@intnet.mu cell : +230 732 68 87
Nicolas Ritter (Pride Coordinator) nritter@intnet.mu cell : + 230 729 98 80

Press release done by yours truly...

Labels: festivals, things that make me happy

Posted by east of madagascar at 8:56 PM | Permalink | Comments