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Monday, October 23, 2006

East & West Africa v.s. Far East Africa

Mauritius is unlike any other African country I've been to...

Gone are the days of hand washing clothes or cooking on charcoal. Here on L'Ile Maurice, washing machines, microwaves and televisions are in practically every home.

Also, instead of walking around or relying on shared taxis like matatus or dala dalas, people here get around using cars, mopeds, motorcycles and air-conditioned buses .. all which follow the British system and drive on the left side of the road.

Cell phone culture is different here as well. For instance, unlike in Nigeria, Kenya or Tanzania, people here actually use their cell phones to make phone calls... and lengthy phone calls at that! Hehe. From my experience, no such phenomenon exists in East or West Africa. In the countries I've visited previously, cell phones basically function as pagers. You call someone, hang up real fast (before they pick up), and let them call you back at their own expense if their credit permits.

The practice is so widespread it even has it’s own name –- “flashing.” and it’s great unless you REALLY need to talk to someone. For special occasions like those, people break down and send text messages... lots and lots of text messages. Perhaps that makes Mainland African cell phones less like pagers and more like sidekicks?

That's not to paint an overly rosy picture of life on Mauritius. There are definite disparities of wealth here, and many people who I would consider to be poor or at least economically unstable.. However, my point is that, even when that is considered, the quality of life here is still much higher than the rest of Sub Saharan Africa.

Mauritius also feels different than the rest of Africa because more than half of its population is ethnically Indian, and the society here reflects that. Lots of Mauritian women wear sarees and other types of traditional dress on a daily basis, and many women, young-and-old, wear bindis and rub a swatch of red dye on their scalps to signify that their married. Hindu festivals and “Indian Indentured Servants Day” are also celebrated as national holidays.

Similarly, of the three cable TV channels offered by the Mauritian Broadcasting Service, one channel is entirely in Hindi, with Bollywood films running 24/7. Also, since arriving, I've read several newspaper articles that referred to India as "la grande péninsule" .. (translation from french: the Great Peninsula).

However, these observations are not to suggest that Mauritius is simply little India. To the contrary, thirty percent of the population is descendent from Africans and five percent are Chinese, with both groups contributing significantly to Mauritian culture. Creole Sega dancing is the appointed national dance of Mauritius, and its originated in communities of African slaves. Furthermore, Mauritian cuisine has a distinct multi-cultural influence. A typical menu at a Mauritian restaurant features a blend of noodles, fried rice, biryanis, curries, tomato stews, seafood and roti. A final thing that sets Mauritius apart from India and beyond is that most people here speak French or French-derived Creole.

So… if you want to visualize Mauritius, just try to imagine an African island populated with Indians, a splattering of Africans, and the occasional Asian person, all whom speak French and dine on a combination of Chinese food, Indian cuisine, and down-home Creole cooking.

Although adjusting to things has been a veritable challenge, I can’t tell if I’m suffering from culture shock or culture confusion...

Friday, October 13, 2006

Days One & Two



Traveling to Mauritius took 2 full days.

My voyage began on Thursday October 12 at the Raleigh-Durham airport. To my delight, at the ticket counter I discovered that United Airlines only allows 50 pounds of luggage, even on international flights to Timbucktu and beyond. Which of course made it wonderful that I had three bags weighing between 60 and 70 pounds.

From Raleigh, I flew to Chicago, where air traffic was backed up due to the year's first snowstorm. Instead of landing 2 hours before my connecting flight to London as scheduled, my plane arrived 15 minutes (?!?!) before my departure, incidentally at an entirely different terminal. Yay! (note sarcasm).

Anyone who remembers my career in track knows that I am good for 100 meters when sprinting.. after which point, walking becomes an athletic activity in itself.

So yeah.. despite the odds being against me, I managed to sprint, jog and pant the distance between terminal B and terminal C in just under 7 minutes... Although my lungs had practically collapsed by the time I arrived, I made it to the gate just before the cut off. My baggage wasn't so fortunate, but what can you do?

From Chicago I flew to London, and from London I flew to Dubai. Despite the fact that I only set foot in Dubai for a couple of hours, the experience was memorable enough to write about. I had an 8 hour layover that took place during the oddest of hours.. 7pm to 2am. As a result, although it was too dark and too late to paint the town red, the prospect of spending a third of my day in the airport lobby was equally uninviting. Thus, I stumbled across a happy medium : going shopping!

After clearing customs, I boarded a taxi and had it drop me off at the City Center Mall, just about ten minutes drive away. Although the cabbie chatted me up about his family being Kenyan and handed off his business card, he overcharged me craploads. The return trip from the mall in similar traffic was 15 Dirhams, compared to 25 Dirhams on the way there. Bastard.. but who's complaining?

As I soon came to find out, the Dubai City Center Mall is a three-story monstrosity frequented by shoppers of all races and persuasions-- at all hours of the day. In addition to staying open until the ungodly hour of 1AM, the Mall provided shoppers with what could perhaps be called the definitive Middle-East meets West shopping experience.


If you think the world is still culturally distinct, that just means you haven'’t been to Forever 21 Dubai or visited the UAE Body Shop lately. That, or picked up the newest offerings from Diesel Jeans Emirates.

Peering into Forever 21 Dubai was a definite pinnacle experience in my shopping excursion. However, passing by Arab versions of Lush, Unos, Starbucks and Burger King came in as a close second.


I was also pretty floored when I encountered a shop dedicated to converse sneakers, skatewear and longboards.

That surprise was only surpassed when I ran into a series of women'’s clothing stores catering to more '“refined tastes.' One shop in particular featured a series of mannequin’s wearing rinestone studded hijabs and veils accented with gold thread.



At the end of my extended tour of the mall (4+ hours when you factor in the time in took to order french fries and 2 rounds of jasmine tea), I returned to the airport convinced that global capitalism is a wondrous, wondrous thing.. and by wonderous, I mean jaw-dropping, ubiquitous and absolutely terrifying.

Alors, mon voyage a l'Ile Maurice continue (Alas, my voyage to Mauritius continues...)

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

Welcome to the Electric Fence E-Zine!

For the next 10 months I will be documenting my travels in and around Mauritius, a small African island in the Indian Ocean.

Updates to follow...Allons-y!